Although Bremen lost its harbor function a long time ago to Bremerhaven, it had been a harbor and trade town of the Hanze and even long after that.

Walking via the park at the city’s moat, The Wandelgek noticed this old fella:

 

There are still a lot of traces of Bremen being a hanseatic trade town with a harbor to be found in Bremen nowadays, specificly in the old harbor neighborhood:

The Schnoor Viertel

The Schnoor Viertel (English: Schnoor Quarter) was actually the main reason for The Wandelgek to choose Bremen as a travel destination.

Bremen’s old town, the Schnoor Quarter is a charming maze of narrow lanes and crooked little houses whose origins reach back to the Middle Ages. As early as the 13th century, sailors, craftsmen, and goldsmiths lived and worked here, setting up their workshops in streets once organized by guilds. The buildings, mostly half-timbered and built from sandstone, appear haphazardly placed, yet they follow an unseen order: each alley is a fragment of living city history. The name “Schnoor” comes from the Low German word for “string” or “cord”, recalling the rope makers who once produced rigging here for the ships sailing the Weser. Today, the neatly restored houses with their painted facades truly stand “like pearls on a string.” Anyone wandering through these narrow lanes can sense the echoes of centuries past — the ring of distant bells, the crunch of cobblestones, the aroma of freshly roasted coffee.Cafés, small workshops, goldsmiths, and galleries now fill what were once artisans’ dwellings. In a house that once belonged to a family of sailors, one now finds fine pastries and porcelain figures. The proximity to the river and the labyrinthine layout give the quarter an almost fairy-tale atmosphere — especially in winter, when every window glows with light and stories. Even beyond Germany, this charm has not gone unnoticed. In 2018, the New York Post named Bremen’s Schnoor one of the “coolest streets in the world,” the only European entry on their list. For many locals, that came as no surprise. Its special appeal seems to lie in its small scale: on just a few square meters, a diversity unfolds that would fill entire streets elsewhere. Today, this car-free district is regarded as a precious refuge in the midst of the modern city — a place where one not only shops but also loses and finds time anew.

He had seen many photographs of this old town harbor quarter on socials and internet and they immediately had caught his attention. The many colored houses of which none is identical to the other, seem to be attached together like a few winding strings.

He thought this so beautiful that he started delving deeper into Bremen’s history and its main attractions for visitors, before deciding he needed to visit the town.

This tiny square was at the entrance of the Schnoor Viertel …

The Birgittenkloster (Convent of Saint Birgitta), a small Bridgettine convent founded in October 2002 is located in the Schnoor, as is St. John’s Church, a listed building with a history going back to the 14th century. (The church can be seen in the photo above to the right).

In the 13th century Franciscan friars had settled and their St. John’s church was constructed in the following decades.

The Schifferhaus in Bremen – Bremen-Mitte Stavendamm 15, Schnoor district, is a well-known house and got its name from an owner who felt particularly connected to shipping and opened a grocery store on the ground floor around 1920. It was and is an attraction for numerous, also prominent visitors (e.g. Hans-Dietrich Genscher). There has been a public fountain in front of the house for about 100 years.

The building has been a Bremen listed building since 1973. On the Day of the Open Monument, it is usually open to the public.

It is one of the most famous houses because it has been preserved in its original state.

Schnoor is a neighbourhood in the medieval centre of the German city of Bremen, and the only part of it that has preserved a medieval character. The neighbourhood owes its name to old handicrafts associated with shipping. The alleys between the houses were often associated with occupations or objects: There was an area in which ropes and cables were produced (string = Schnoor) and a neighboring area, where wire cables and anchor chains were manufactured (wire = Wieren).

In the Hanseatic city of Bremen, the Schnoor was one of the poorer corners. While the rich merchants settled in the Obernstraße (Upper Street), which was meant as well geographically (ridge of the dune, which again remembered me of how my hometown of Deventer also was first build upon three river dunes) as socially, or in the Langenstraße (Long street, along the Balge, Bremen’s first harbour), the Schnoor developed in the 10th century as a district of fishermen. The inhabitants built thatched cottages on the little island between the rivers Weser and Balge. Therefore, during its first centuries it was liable to high floods (again just like Deventer was).

If you like to read more about the history of my hometown, Deventer which is a dutch hanseatic town, than read my 4 city walk blogposts:

Deventer (the ultimate historic walk for history lovers in 4 parts) Part 1

Deventer (the ultimate historic walk for history lovers in 4 parts) Part 2

Deventer (the ultimate historic walk for history lovers in 4 parts) Part 3

Deventer (the ultimate historic walk for history lovers in 4 parts) Part 4

The first ferry service was established here, and the first bridge crossing the Weser was built around the year 1240. You can find an old wall and parts of a round tower which was erected around 1200, near the so-called Marterburg.

After I saw this little bear on a bench I new I could expect all sorts of weird but cozy stuff while roaming through the alleys of the Schnoor.

There were still relations with the shipping, trade, the sea and the river to be found in the Schnoor …

Today the oldest houses date back to the 15th century. Most of them are from the 17th and 18th centuries. While other parts of Bremen developed with plots of about one square kilometre and merchant’s villas, the plots in the Schnoor have areas which are just enough for a single houses on 55 square metres. The narrow streets were not suitable for the increase in traffic from the 19th century. The quarter became one of the poorest parts of Bremen, a situation that meant renovations were unaffordable. During the Second World War the Schnoor suffered only slight damage, so that owners of the houses had to pay a Lastenausgleich after 1945. But by the mid-1950s the houses were in a pitiable state.

The Senate of the Free Hanseatic Town of Bremen decided in 1959 to rebuild the historic area of the Schnoor. House owners were invited to restore rundown buildings with financial support from the State of Bremen. This development was in contrast to the common practice in many towns and cities in Germany and Europe until the late 1970s.

Schnoor is also the name of the main street in this neighbourhood. Another street there is Marterburg.

The situation changed with the Venice Charter for the Conservation and Restoration of Monuments and Sites (1964) so that in 1973 the Schnoor became a historic district under official heritage conservation through the State Monument Authority.

In the heart of Bremen lies a place where every corner tells a story: the Schnoor. This picturesque quarter, with its labyrinth of narrow alleys, feels like stepping into a living painting. Locals and travelers wander side by side through its tangle of cobblestones, past tiny houses that seem strung together like beads on a thread—an image so exact it gave the district its name, from the old Low German word Schnoor. Behind these colorful façades hide treasures both old and new: handcrafted goods, cozy tearooms filled with laughter, and art galleries where creativity spills out onto the street. Here, life unfolds at a gentler pace. A stroll becomes a journey—one that winds through centuries of craftsmanship, sweet aromas, and quiet beauty. Even across the ocean, the Schnoor has caught attention. In 2018, the New York Post featured the district among the world’s “coolest streets”— and the only one from Europe. But what makes this tiny patch of Bremen such a magnet for visitors and residents alike? “It’s all about the scale meaning that many shopkeepers work with just a few square meters, yet they fill them with remarkable quality. That intimacy creates a shopping experience unlike anywhere else. The Schnoor is our car-free gem, where history meets atmosphere—and every purchase feels like a little journey of its own. By day, the quarter hums with life. People weave through the alleys, peering into shop windows, tasting local sweets, or searching for gifts that carry a touch of Bremen home with them. The offerings are as varied as they are charming: books and brushes, candles and children’s clothes, handmade soaps, knitwear, instruments, and even sturdy, weather-tested umbrellas crafted by a local maker. But step into the Schnoor early in the morning or late at night, and the mood transforms. The crowds fade, the lights soften, and the sound of footsteps on cobblestones fills the air. The old walls glow in the lamplight, and suddenly, the past doesn’t feel so distant at all. The Schnoor invites you to linger — to breathe, to wander, and to experience Bremen’s soul, quietly beating in its oldest streets.

The Wandelgek strolled through the narrow streets and even narrower alleys of the Schnoor. It felt a bit like the Bergkwartier or the Overstraten in his hometown of Deventer.

There were really funny specialty and antiquity shops …

… and workplaces for craftsmen …

Walking through the Schnoor feels as if a fragment of centuries past had been gently set down in the middle of the city.

Between narrow alleys and crooked gables, time seems to stretch — slower, quieter, touched by a hint of magic. Brightly painted half-timbered houses line the way, and from open windows drift the scents of freshly brewed espresso and homemade cakes. The district is Bremen’s oldest, yet it pulses with life. Artists display their work, small shops offer handmade treasures, and visitors linger in tiny cafés hardly bigger than a living room. Look closely, and you’ll see: the Schnoor is no museum — it’s a lively little village right in the heart of the city. As stated before, its name comes from Low German, meaning “string” or “cord” — a perfect image, since the houses truly line up like pearls on a thread. This distinctive charm has earned the neighborhood international attention. When the New York Post once named the Schnoor one of the “coolest streets in the world,” it surprised no one who had strolled these lanes. What makes the Schnoor so special is its devotion to detail. Every shop tells its own story: of silver and soap, of brushes and books, of musical instruments and children’s clothes. Even on a rainy day, the quarter loses none of its charm — the cobblestones glisten as if freshly polished. Those who wander through the quiet streets early in the morning or late at night experience Bremen at its most poetic. No cars, no noise — just stone, wind, and the feeling that the past has dropped by for a brief visit.

This devotion to detail can be seen on the exteriors of the buildings too …

… , look e.g. at the detail below from the building above …

Or look at this little wall statue of Fipps der Affe (Fipps the Monkey), created by Wilhelm Busch, who we know better from his Max und Moritz books.

There is also a lot to see if you look up …

In one of the half-timbered houses was a restaurant (Beck’s in’n Schnoor) which The Wandelgek liked and he reserved a table for diner later.

Then he saw a shop selling beautiful mugs mostly comicbook related …

… and he entered to browse through its collections. He did buy some Tintin and Asterix mugs because they looked really cool, …

… like e.g. the one beneath which represents the trousers of Obelix …

More than a hundred tiny houses line the twisted lanes of Bremen’s Schnoor, their timber frames whispering stories that reach back to the Middle Ages. Most survived the Second World War untouched, and over the decades they have been lovingly restored, now standing gracefully under the watch of heritage protection. The quarter, named after its slender “main street,” lies tucked in the heart of the city.

From the UNESCO-listed Town Hall and Roland statue, the cathedral, the market square, or the riverside promenade, it’s only a few steps away—a hidden world just moments from Bremen’s busy center.

Walking these cobbled pathways feels like slipping into another century. Medieval facades lean close together, their beams polished by time, their doors slightly uneven from age.

Each house seems to guard a secret: perhaps a craftsman’s shop turned gallery, or a guesthouse where lovers once stayed.

One of those doors opens to the Hochtiedshuus (see photo below for its backside), believed to be the smallest hotel in the world. In earlier centuries, rural couples who came to marry in the cathedral would rent a tiny room here to prove they had a place of their own. Today, honeymooners still check in beneath the same slanted roof—though now for romance rather than formality.

You pass the “Katzengang”—one of the world’s narrowest alleys—and marvel at how this place resisted the crush of wars and urban renewal, keeping its enchanting, tangled soul intact. Cafés and boutiques offer warmth as you pause, heart swelling at the beauty of restored half-timbered cottages and happy faces of both tourists and locals who look just as dazzled as you feel.

Tucked away in this tiny alley of the Schnoor is the Katzen café (Cat café) and The Wandelgek thought it was time for a drink there …

After following the everwinding Katzengang (Cats alley) for a while The Wandelgek reached the actual restaurant …

… and i a small … there was a terrace where he enjoyed a Duckstein Weizenbeer.

Cheers!!!

The cats were also enjoying themselves with a cooled wine on a nearby table …

After this welcome refreshment The Wandelgek went on following the same winding alley to a gate at its end …

Your footsteps echo on the stones worn smooth by thousands before you: fishermen, craftspeople, friars, and children chasing cats down alleys barely wide enough for secrets to whisper through. Here, buildings survive from the 15th and 16th centuries, and tales of river life and bustling medieval trade still cling to the sweet scent of baking from a nearby patisserie. Every shop window is a miniature museum …

Every corner of the Schnoor holds something to discover. Morning sunlight spills across the half-timbered fronts, while at dusk the alleys glow like a stage set.

Visitors stroll and linger, camera in hand (just like me 😉) or just lost in thought (just like me too🙃), finding beauty not in grandeur but in detail. Those curious about the stories behind the walls can join one of many guided tours. Here, history isn’t simply preserved — it breathes. And with every step, the Schnoor quietly reminds you that the past never truly leaves; it just changes its rhythm to match the present.

The art below again shows through a mast, sails, ropes and a steer that the naval history of the Schnoor has not completely vanished.

There were so many hidden alleys with twists and turns that it was impossible to visit them all, but The Wandelgek did visit a bunch …

Like e.g. this one …

These alleys were just wide enough for 1 single person to walk through, but passing another person had to be done walking sideways …

After winding through a narrow maze like back street alley …

… The Wandelgek reached one of the main streets of the Schnoor.

The Wandelgek had been in a few shops which all looked fantastic, reminding him of the shops in his hometown of Deventer, but now at the end of this Schnoor mainstreet, he was going to see something else.

The shop was just next to the blue restaurant of Haake Beck Ausspann …

… and it is partly a half timbered house, …

wich does not look like very much from the outside, meaning the exterior is not that impressive, …

… , but the interior is like what Alice found after jumping into the rabbit hole …

The shop is named Schnoor One and it was a regular Wonderland. Entering Schnoor One feels like stepping into a living work of imagination — a shop unlike any other, full of surprises, every corner an invitation to pause and wonder. As you cross the threshold, the shop transforms before your eyes: it might resemble a miniature forest with whimsical staircases leading upward, each visit different from the last, a changing tableau of art and vintage curiosities. With a sense of adventure, you climb the steep stairs — a portal into another world. For a moment, surrounded by lush green decor, twisted branches, and imaginative props, you feel as though you’re walking through a secret woodland in the heart of Bremen’s old city. Upstairs, the exhibition continues: old manuscripts and eccentric artwork create a dreamy, almost theatrical atmosphere. Visitors are greeted warmly, invited not just to buy but to listen, to muse, to become part of the shop’s creative tapestry …

From the windows you look at the roofs of this patchwork of little houses—each unique, painted in faded blues, ochres, and creams — standing shoulder to shoulder like old friends, leaning with centuries of camaraderie and Bremen breeze.

Inside, surreal photo exhibitions shimmer on the walls, their subjects poised between fairytale and reality, reflecting the creative spirit of Phil Porter, the shop’s curator. Glass cabinets display antique brooches, strange trinkets, hand-crafted miniatures, and evocative black-and-white photographs. You might trail your fingers along a weathered set of drawers stuffed with antique maps, then turn to find yourself face-to-face with peculiar vintage designs and odd sculptures, each item with a story…

Schnoor One is about wonder—a tactile experience, not just a shop but an ever-evolving cabinet of curiosities, a place where stories, art, antiques, and vintage magic are layered together. You linger beneath creaking beams, soaking in the aura, awestruck by how such a small shop can contain endless worlds. When you finally emerge back onto the cobbles of Schnoor, the city seems changed: you carry a piece of this enchanted place with you, aglow with possibility and memory.

Schnoor One captures all of The Schnoor’s spirit in its “cabinet of curiosities,” an art and photography exhibition and shop where you can hold a fragment of Bremen’s wonder in your hands — perhaps an antique brooch, perhaps a photograph that glimmers with memory. You leave reluctantly, convinced you have wandered not just through Bremen’s oldest district but through the very beating heart of the city, where the past and present twine together like — well — a perfect string 😉.

The Wandelgek left Wonderland awestruck and was still in fairyland when he saw this sign of the Bremer Stadtmusikanten.

There was still time to stroll around a bit more and The Wandelgek decided tp leave the Schnoor mainstreet and find some more alley and off the grid streets and shops..

These streets were a lot less crowded with people and still they were really beautiful and magical …

He looked at some shop windows and signs hanging above doors …

One of tge stretts was called Hinter der Balge.

The Balge (meaning narrow watercourse) was until 1838 a short side arm of the Weser with landing places for boats and ‘Eken’; hence the street name Hinter der Balge. The name Schnoor (Snoor) means string. It came from the shipcraft and the production of ropes and cords or Schnure (= string).

The medieval Schnoor neighborhood, which developed in the 10th century as a district mainly for fishermen, attracted all sorts of craftsmen as well who build the ships, made the ropes and the sails etcetera.

Hinter der Balge 10 and its surroundings were once part of a network of winding alleys and tiny homes that escaped serious damage during World War II. This allowed many historic buildings, including this one, to be preserved or carefully restored, contributing richly to Bremen’s cultural heritage.

The residential building at Hinter der Balge 10 in Bremen, shown in the photo’s beneath, is famously known as the “Kleinstes Haus Deutschlands” or the Smallest House of Germany, a historic curiosity nestled in the heart of Bremen’s Schnoor district. This remarkably tiny house, squeezed into a narrow space, embodies the ingenuity and resourcefulness of Bremen’s past residents, dating back to the early 19th century when space was at a premium in the bustling port city of Bremen.

It was just lovely to stroll through these tiny streets and although The Wandelgek had loved the market square area, the Böttcherstraße and the Weser quays as well, he had been coming to Bremen because of this neighborhood and it didn’t dissappoint one bit.

Bremen had been really interesting to compare with my hometown of Deventer as both had been important hanseatic towns. Both towns had

• a moat around the city center;
• a medieval historic city center showing of the city had been very wealthy in those days;
• a location next to a river;
• a connection with fishermen;
• nowadays an area of very diverse and detailed small shops in a medieval part of the town.

The Wandelgek thought he had seen the weirdest shop, but he was in for yet another surprise.

I mean: It is quite strange to encounter a full blown Christmas style shop in mid Summer …

There was so much to Christmassy stuff to see that after a while you forget it os summer and you really get into a Chistmas vibe and The Wandelgek really needed to restrain himself from buying Chistmas decorations …

No stroll through the Schnoor would be complete without a taste of its flavors. Between centuries-old façades and cobbled lanes, aromas drift from cafés, bakeries, and tiny tea houses where Bremen’s sweet traditions still live on. Here, you can sample local classics like Kluten, Klaben, and Babbeler alongside fragrant tea, creamy coffee, and homemade ice cream or waffles that melt on the tongue. The choice is as varied as the quarter itself. Historic bakeries rub shoulders with quaint patisseries, snug cafés, and inviting restaurants that glow with warm light in the evenings. The menus tell stories of Bremen and beyond: hearty northern dishes such as Labskaus, kale, and Knipp, freshly caught fish from the Weser, Mediterranean memories on a plate, or a burst of spice from Moroccan and Asian creations.In the Schnoor, eating feels less like dining out and more like taking part in the neighborhood’s long conversation—one that has been simmering, sweetening, and seasoning for hundreds of years.

It was time to return to Beck’s in ‘n Schnoor for dinner.

The Wandelgek chose the Schnoorpfanne to try, which was Schweinefiletmedaillons mit Rahmchampignons, Nürnberger- Rostbratwurst, Grillspeck und Bratkartoffeln (Pork tenderloin medallions with creamy mushrooms, Nuremberg grilled sausages, grilled bacon, and fried potatoes).

The food overhere was delicious.

After this long day it was time to end in a good place for some drinks and near the hotel and the railway station, The Wandelgek had noticed an Irish pub named Paddy’s.

Ending the days at Paddy’s:

Paddy’s would become the place to end the days in Bremen so after visiting it was only a short walk to bed…

Question: What is it with Irish pubs that is so attractive that every country and city in the world seems to have at least one? Is it the music or the beers, or the interior, or the live music or the food? Well I do not know exactly but Bremen has one, Deventer had one and still has an Irish festival where cafés initate Irish pubs and on his many, many travels, The Wandelgek visited countless Irish pubs in many countries and cities all over the world…

I do have another question. I know …

God created liquor to keep the Irish from conquering the world, except they still did with their Irish music and Irish pubs …

Forgetting questions is not such a problem if it means you also forget other stuff …

After some drinks and good music and conversations, The Wandelgek returned to his hotel and bed. A good nights rest would help to start an early next day in Bremen …